The next day, I got up with more than enough time to repack before getting onto the metro to get to the Thalys train station for Brussels. When I walked onto the platform and was looking lost as I usually do when I'm taking a new form of transportation, an older gentleman stopped me and started saying something in French while making hand motions to his face and something far in the distance. I could pick up some words like beautiful and incomparable so I figured it must have been a compliment so I stood there and smiled as he finished talking. When he finished, I gave him that "Desolée mais je ne parle pas le français" apologetic face and so he translated what he said to some broken English and it had something to the effect of "I paint many beautiful landscapes and when I saw your face, I thought that it is incomparable to what I have painted." I smiled and said thank you and he gave me his website to look at his paintings (readers, you can decide if what he said is a compliment or not - www.philippepingusson.wix.com/peintures-paris). With that, he walked away and I found a nice little pillar to sit down next to while I waited to board my train.
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The Thalys train |
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Sitting next to a pillar munching on last night's baguette |
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Like Superman!(?) |
With a short one hour train ride, I made it to Brussels right in time for the rain to come down. My couchsurfing host, Frederik (Fré) had told me that he had a short two hour break in the middle of the day because he is a chef so we had planned to meet up during his work break. I had about an hour and a half before his break so I walked close to where his flat was and ducked into a little bar called Coq D'Or and waited out the rain. The bartender kept looking at me because I sipped my beer very slowly to try to make it last the full hour or so that I had to wait. I took the time to add to my blog post for Ireland and watched this older man play some sort of pinball on two machines side by side but it looked like he was also placing bets on some sort of screen so I'm not exactly sure what the game was.
Finally getting a text from Fré, I quickly gathered my things and walked up the street to his flat. Once I put down my things in his flat and saw that Fré had exactly the same Ikea foldout couch as my previous host, Clem. I thought that was pretty funny and I wonder if lots of my hosts will have the same couch but we shall see. So since the rain had subsided and Fré had some time for lunch, we walked to a small little square near his and had a bit of lunch. With my cappuccino, they gave me a little piece of chocolate and apparently chocolate comes with everything! Well, almost. I ordered a yummy carrot and cardamom soup and croque something that is like a grilled cheese but with goat cheese and zucchini. The menu was written in French on one side and Flemish on the other side but Fré told me that very few people speak Flemish. He told me that there's tension between the Flemish, French, and I think English speakers in Brussels but told me it was fine to speak English in most places.
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Cappuccino with chocolate |
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Yummy lunch |
After lunch, Fré was really thoughtful about recommending where I should go to explore because in my planning, Brussels had come as an afterthought so I didn't really know where to start. So Fré pulled up a map and showed me all the things I should see and recommended a path to take to check them all out before he had to head back to work. I guess I didn't realize how tired I was because I sat down for a bit to type some more for my blog and ended up falling asleep after he left. But the wonders a little nap will do!
Feeling refreshed, I went to explore the different things that Fré had recommended that would lead me to the city centre to meet him after work. I started at the Palais de Justice where I could get an elevated view of Saint-Gilles, the part of Brussels that I was in, and since it was getting dark, I got to see the city lit up. Walking around to the other side of the building, there's a huge elevator that brings you down to the lower street but there was no button to call the elevator so while I searched for a button, someone was coming up on it so I didn't have to search for too long.
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View from the Palais de Justice |
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Elevator going down |
Taking the elevator down, I knew that I was walking in the general direction towards the Mont des Arts and passed by a nicely painted alleyway so followed that path. As long as I knew that I was going in the right direction, I continued to take little paths and wandered a bit on little streets. I passed what looked like an old piece of a castle wall next to a newer looking building and a bowling alley and later, when I showed Fré the contrast of it, he told me that it was the remnant of the wall that used to surround Brussels. After a bit more wandering and following the very well-marked signs, I got to the Mont des Arts but wasn't sure that I was actually there because I had followed the signs but didn't know what to look for when I got there but I knew it was worth going to because Fré had recommended that I go. It was really peaceful to walk through the garden and the lights that were along the side of the museum created different colored shadows which was really cool so I took some time playing with my shadows. This night walk was kind of surreal because as I continued to walk, I could hear the smooth sounds of a saxophone being played in the distance. Walking up the steps, I found the saxophonist so gave him a few coins that were in my pocket, making sure that they were all Euro coins of some denomination.
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The alleyway I turned into |
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A cathedral |
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Cool store front |
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Remnants of the old wall around Brussels |
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The gardens at the Mont des Arts |
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Playing with my shadow |
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View from the end of the gardens |
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Up the steps where I found the saxophonist |
Getting out of my dreamlike state, I headed to the park and passed by the Royal Palace of Brussels on the way. There were a lot of runners out at the park which made me realize how out of shape I'm probably getting... I didn't walk through the park because it was dark and there were red cloths on all the lamps throughout the park which gave it this eerie feeling. So I walked the perimeter, having runners pass me every so often. Even though Fré didn't recommend it, I went to find the Manneken Pis which is apparently a huge tourist attraction and it was on the way to where I was supposed to meet Fré anyway so I went. It was this cute little statue on the side of a building and worth the detour because that's where I found a waffle shop. Fré told me that waffles aren't a thing for locals but I had to be a tourist and get one anyway.
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Walking along and came upon this large square |
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The park welcomed me! |
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The Royal Palace of Brussels |
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The eerie park |
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I just liked the sign all the way on the right :) |
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The Manneken Pis |
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Waffle! |
With my waffle in hand, I walked towards the Bourse, where I was supposed to meet Fré. The Bourse was bustling with crowds of people and looked like there were lots of little restaurants and other businesses along the little side streets. Fré asked if I passed La Grand Place on my way there and I wasn't sure because I had taken little side streets but he said I would have known if I did and he was right because when we walked there, the path opened up to this huge courtyard with these amazingly grand (haha) buildings. One building was supposed to be symmetrical but apparently the money to build the entire building ran low so one side is shorter by a section which I thought was what gave it personality.
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Asymetrical building at La Grand Place |
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Perpendicular to the asymmetrical building |
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Next to the previous building |
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Fre said that this is one is his favorite. |
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Another building at La Grand Place |
After walking through La Grand Place and finally figuring out how to eat my waffle, we made it to Delirium Café which is the biggest beer bar in the world, having 2003 different types of beer available in 2003 and I think now, they have close to or over 3000. I never would have thought that there could be so many different types and brands of beers! The lower level had the ceiling and walls completely covered with model bottle caps for different beers and it just looked really retro I think would be the word to use. By the end of the night, I had tried six different types of beer, two of which I ordered in French - a banana-flavored one, a coconut-flavored one, a cherry-flavored one, a raspberry-flavored one, a Karmeliet, and an Orval. Not a beer connoisseur yet but I'm getting there!
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Taco technique for waffle |
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Cheers to a new friend! |
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Bottle caps everywhere! |